We’re recently back from a two-week trip to Ireland where we spent most of our time on the rural west coast.
Slea Head Drive, part of the Wild Atlantic Way in West Kerry
Winter there was cold, gray and wet, much like Maine, but spring was in full flower when we arrived on the 11th of April, a huge relief after a heavy snowstorm clotted our landscape the week before we departed.
The Bluebells were in bloom when we arrived.
My grandmother
Celebrating my family heritage was the primary aim of this trip. Both of my maternal grandparents emigrated from Ireland to the US at the turn of the twentieth century.
They didn’t know each other in Ireland—Ellen Fenton was from Co. Kerry and John Kane from Co. Mayo—but both boarded ships on the west coast of Ireland and left their homeland forever when they were young adults.
They met in Massachusetts, married and had six children, the fifth of whom was my mother.
My grandmother died long before my birth. But because my mother and my other relatives spoke about her so often, I grew up with a strong sense of her. Most of her nine siblings also emigrated to the US, including her younger sister Kate, who lived down the street from my childhood home.
The view toward the sea from the farm where my grandmother was raised in County Kerry.
I was aware one of her younger brothers was a world-class marksman who had won Olympic medals as a member of the United States shooting team in 1920 and 1924. But it took until adulthood, when my cousin Kay Fitzgerald shared her meticulous genealogical research with me, that the Fenton family history came into clearer focus.
The other main branch of the Fenton family didn’t emigrate. The descendants of Patrick Fenton still live today on the Dingle Peninsula in the townland known as Baile an Chótaigh (English pronounciation, Ballincota), which is within the town of Ventry.
The farmhouse where we stayed. The stone house where my grandmother was raised is gone now. The far left side of this newer house is on its footprint.
Last month, I was delighted to meet for the first time my cousin Muiris, his wife Philomena, three of their six children, Grainne, Peter and Emer, and their grandson Paddy.
The connection was instantaneous, our conversation as effortless as though we’d known each other all of our lives. For three nights we stayed in a farmhouse adjacent to the spot where my grandmother’s home—a stone house with a thatched roof that was repurposed as a cart house for farm equipment in about the 1920s—was located.
Sheep, including some baby lambs, headed for the barn.
That building is gone now. Peter told me it was crumbling when he was a teenager, and he was given the task of demolishing it with a tractor. He pointed to a large rockpile 100 yards from where we stood. “That mound of rock on the edge of the field is what remains of it,” he said. “We still use the stones from time to time. They’re good stones.” He retrieved a small one for me and presented it as a gift I’ll treasure.
Grainne described her favorite walk along the boreen to the road that leads to the Ventry Strand, the beautiful beach Baile an Chótaigh overlooks. We both feel sure my grandmother walked the same path hundreds of times before she left Ireland in 1901 at the age of twenty.
The week before we arrived, Muiris was a key organizer of a long-overdue celebration of the accomplishments of my great uncle Dennis Fenton, who won three gold and two bronze medals in the 1920 and 1924 Olympics. For more information about him, go here: https://olympics.com/en/athletes/dennis-fenton
The commemoration originally was planned for 2020, a century after the Antwerp games where he’d won his first medals, but the pandemic forced it to be postponed until this year.
About a dozen of my cousins from Massachusetts were on hand April 3, the day a bench in the center of Ventry village was dedicated in his memory. Due to work schedules, we didn’t arrive until a week later, and while it was unfortunate we missed what sounded like a wonderful gathering, it was a thrill to see the beautiful memorial when we did get there.
Later in the trip we explored the countryside in Co. Mayo, where no members of my grandfather’s family remain. The last time we were in Ireland I went to the General Registry in Dublin and found my grandpa’s birth certificate, showing he was born in a townland called Bekan. That pinned it down enough for us to drive east from Westport through beautiful farmland and find a tiny village centered around an old church. I’d assumed the pronunciation of the name was Beck-an, but a lovely woman in the combination pub/store corrected me. “It’s Bacon, like Bacon and Cabbage,” she said, a mnemonic I won’t soon forget.
A rainbow after one of the many afternoon showers we experienced in the west of Ireland during our trip.
Coming next month: Music, history, Galway and Dublin.
Brenda Buchanan brings years of experience as a journalist and a lawyer to her crime fiction. She has published three books featuring Joe Gale, a newspaper reporter who covers the crime and courts beat. She is now hard at work on new projects. FMI, go to http://brendabuchananwrites.com
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